Day 24: Lortet to Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges

September 29, 2019 – Departed 8:15 – Arrived: 18:15

I slept so-so but was up at the crack of dawn, or even before, taking the tent down when the day had barely broken. Then I had a quick breakfast and started walking. The sky was spotless and it remained so the entire day. Even at 8:00 I could feel waves of hot wind blowing past me and indeed the day was not only sunny, it was hot too.

The last half hour of yesterday’s hike and the first hour of today’s hike were a mess. There were just no blazes. After a while I was able to distinguish a couple of washed out things that may have been red and white marks in the past, but that was it. I had to rely on my map. An hour into today’s hike I did end up finding blazes, but they were leading in the exact opposite direction of where I wanted to go. I finally walked on the road to the next village where at last a good set of reliable blazes appeared. I am still puzzled by the whole thing though. My best guess is that the GR78 has been rerouted since my guide was printed. I have tried not to let myself be too frustrated by the entire episode.

At half past noon I came through a nice village called Nestier and decided to take a break by the church, which had a green lawn and a picnic table. While doing so I got the tent out and laid it on the grass to dry, as it was completely covered in dew when I packed it in the morning. I also proceeded to take a few pictures in the village – including of one of a corner stone of the church which has a carving of a shell, a reminder that the Camino goes through here!

As I am walking through the villages I have noticed a progressive change in the style of the houses. A few roofs with red tiles first appeared along the slate-covered houses. Closer to Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges, all houses now have round red tiles, and some houses appear to be built with big round stones. It gives villages a totally different character.

Tonight I am staying at a Halte Saint Jacques kept by a woman called Marie Uchan. It’s absolutely wonderful. My hostess has fed me a delicious dinner and she goes to great lengths to make sure I am not missing anything. I feel really spoiled. It is such a contrast to yesterday’s camping in the woods!