Day 1 – Hendaye to Col d’Ibardin

August 29, 2019 – Departed 12:30 – Arrived 18:00

The train arrived close to noon, and I spent a few minutes on the beach getting my feet wet. Then I started hiking and got immediately lost, which happened at least three times today.

The first couple of hours were okay. Then the slope got steeper and it became really tough. I don’t know if it’s the weight of the backpack (15 kg) or my age or my lack of shape or the heat of the afternoon, but I got really discouraged and had to sit down several times. Then I met two people who were just finishing the GR 10, having started 45 days ago – they said that the first four days are the hardest, until the body has had a chance to adjust. The rest of the hike I really took my time when going uphill, alternating walking 10 s and resting 20 s. It may seem silly and lame but it really helped.

I am staying at the Venta Elizalde, which offers the luxury of individual rooms with showers. That felt nice. Had dinner there too. The Venta is on the Spanish side of the border, which is kind of fun. I am in Spain!

The high points of the day were the fruits that had fallen on the road and which I gathered as walked along – two peaches, two apples and a fig – and the sight of horses roaming freely in the pastures that the path was traversing high up in the mountains. Horses with bells! Also loved the Basque writing everywhere, and the kindness of a man in Biriatou who saw me searching my way and spontaneously pointed me to the right direction.